Chinese Male Names

No longer a Cinderfella

The fact that Father’s Day coincides with the start of the men’s wear shows in Milan might be fortuitous but, somehow, I’m not surprised. I feel that, lately, everywhere I turn I keep hearing about the importance of men.

Whether it’s web retailer Mr Porter telling the world that guys will buy adventurously online, or Hermès opening men-only stores, or various China-watchers pontificating about the majority of Chinese consumers being men, the XY set, it seems, is having a fashion moment.

It took them long enough.

After all, pretty much ever since fashion has been an industry, as opposed to a mom 'n’ pop grouping of names, its prevailing focus has been female. There are many more women’s fashion magazines than men’s; there are more women’s stores; the narrative is all about changing trends in women’s clothes, what women wear on the red carpet and so on. The reason why is understandable: there’s simply so much more choice, so much more room for evolution and rebellion and seduction in women’s wear than men’s. Plus, the received gender stereotypes are almost overwhelming.

Men, the story goes, wear suits. Men on the red carpet maybe get to go all tonal (black on black on black) or debate the merits of cummerbunds versus vests but that’s as far as it goes. As a result, men don’t shop (if nothing much changes, nothing much needs to be bought), ergo there’s no point in putting too much emphasis on men’s shops or ad campaigns. Women, of course, like stuff – and they love shopping. If you’re going to seduce anyone, cherchez la femme : seduce the woman who might buy presents for her man.

Hence the endless Father’s Day suggestions that have been running in every women’s mag for the past month, and the focus on socks, ties and cufflinks. But once you’ve written a few stories on socks, where do you go from there? Hemlines and sleeves, prints and purple, by contrast – now, those are subjects!

Or, to be accurate, those are easy subjects. They lend themselves to pictures, if not deep socio-cultural analysis. Evolutions in men’s wear, of course, are generally more subtle and less visually enticing (some would say boringly unidentifiable) – an inch difference in a lapel is radical change; the question of one vent vs two, or two buttons vs three, on jackets can provoke puzzlingly heated debate. These are issues many of us find hard to get excited about or, frankly, make interesting. (I seem to be the only journalist who thought it mattered that, for example, Dominique Strauss-Kahn was wearing a raincoat when he was indicted for sexual assault, or that Wikileaks’ Julian Assange changed his look twice during his time on the lam.

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